Welcome to the blog of writer and musician Andrew Martin. Here I'll post original photographs and observations as I encounter the history and culture of the San Fernando Valley, the City of the Angels, Alta California and the far-flung Pacific Rim… but mostly the Valley.
There are 36 species of Artemisia in California. The most familiar is “California sagebrush,” Artemisia californica. It’s what puts the sage in “Coastal Sage Scrub,” the dominant ecosystem of natural Los Angeles. Artemisia is that intoxicating scent in the breeze when One visits Mother Nature round these parts.
Artemisia californica, “California sagebrush,” in the Valley bottomland along the River.
[N.B.: Sagebrush is not a sage. A true sage is a Salvia. But the sages and wormwoods so often tag-team across the American West, dominating a terrain for miles at a time, that pioneer bards just summed up the whole gray-green rangeland as “the sagebrush.”]
Artemisia was my “gateway drug” to learning about California’s natural history. I would find these fascinating weeds, up in the canyons, or down in the tules, and think “what are those?” never dreaming they would turn out to be specializations of the same, very important, plant. Stymied by the surprising lack of good, clear botanical photos online, and increasingly ashamed of my own ignorance of the world around me, I started to take pictures and learn about this neglected habitat as a whole. Hence, in part, this blog.
Artemisia douglasiana high up in the slot-canyon of Flow Falls
I’ve read that John C. Fremont was the naturalist who classified the genus. Artemisia is a potent herb in the pharmacopeia, Old World and New. The plants descend from the Aster Family: the Asteraceae, like the daisies and sunflowers. The Asters are the largest and most diverse flower family in the California Floristic Province; and Artemisia is extremely diverse and adaptable:
Top-heavy, the whole plant can flatten out from the center, wide-scattering seed
Artemisia dracunculus sativa — the “little dragon” — or, tarragon
Artemisia is part of world cuisine: the licorice-scented herb tarragon is an Artemisia. Another famous Old World species is A. absinthium, the wormwood from which the liqueur absinthe is distilled. Most Artemisia species, including the Californians, have potent phenols and terpenes, and complex oils and compounds with, especially, cineole and thujone. They have been valued as psycho-active and medicinal by cultures world-wide, from the Chinese to the Chileans to the Chumash:
“Among the medicinal plants used by [the Chumash] was Artemisia douglasiana which was made into a tea to soothe poison oak rash. This plant was also used to cauterize wounds using small cones of dried mugwort leaves, which were placed on the skin and ignited. This method was one of the most important Chumash remedies, along with seawater, datura, bloodletting and red ants. (Timbrook, J. “Virtuous Herbs: Plants in Chumash Medicine”. Journal of Ethnobiology, Winter 1987, 171-180). Probably several species of Artemisia were used in making arrows. The Luiseno, Indians who inhabited what is now northern San Diego County and inland through a portion of Riverside County to the San Jacinto Mountains, regularly made their inferior arrows from A. douglasiana which may also be found in Cahuilla territory. A. dracunculus would also have provided shaft material. (Bean & Saubel 42). Mugwort is reported to have a large quantity of chemical antifeedants called terpenes which inhibit digestion, and thus are unpalatable to insects. (Native Plant class by Dave Bontrager, Spring 1985). Some of the Artemisias, including this one, have been shown to help decrease the ill effects of lipid peroxides (rancid fats) on the liver.”
— UC Irvine website
Superblooming sagebrush rises above it all at Pacoima Cyn.
Artemisia ludoviciana, Louisiana Wormwood, gets the Ziegfeld treatment in Big Tujunga
In California, A. ludoviciana is called “white sagebrush”
Louisiana wormwood: the bitterest herb is the sole life-form that tolerates Fort Sumter, S.C., low in the Lowcountry, soil free, shot through with lead, and strewn with salt
The medicinal oils are noxious to insects, and will kill larvae. Mugwort was the Anglo-Saxon term for the A. vulgaris, the word “mug” being cognate with “midge” and “mought”, or “moth”. (Cf. modern colloquial Dutch, “de muggen,” the summer moths that invade by the thousands if you leave your window open at dusk.) Mugwort herbs are repulsive to insects, fleas and mites and such, and to the squiggling larvae of the wool-devouring clothes-moth, in particular. Thus “worm-wood” and “Mug-wort” are essentially two words implying the same utility, keeping bugs out of clothes. Interestingly, the compound thujone was named for the thuja cedar tree: cedar leaf oil, of course, also being used as a repellent against the moth.
Farmers in the Dakotas will pluck sprigs of wormwood and rub it on the skin, to repel mosquitoes. The oils are anti-inflammatory, and soothing for skin diseases. Chinese medicine seems to use it particularly for moxibustion, the burning of crushed leaf matter into the skin.
Intriguingly, the Valley’s own local Indian religion, the cult of Chinigchinich, apparently adapted an earlier Chumash mugwort ritual scarification tradition into the cult’s initiations. A shaman would prepare a sticky paste made from the white fuzz scraped from the underside of A. douglasiana leaves; then a mugwort pattern was painted or razored into the initiate’s skin, and finally the poultice was ignited to sear the desired pattern into the cut or marked skin. Then, apparently, they would dab a sacred mugwort-decocted salve on the burns until they healed. Of all the Indian religious traditions, this painful adolescent ceremony seemed to horrify the Franciscan Fr. Geronimo Boscana the most. He describes female initiation rites in devilish terms with flames leaping high, and adolescent female shrieks of pain piercing the night. He perceived it simply as “torture” of young girls.
Poor Ito, at least he has faith. Lately he has been spending his time Outside with St. Francis, absorbing as much as he can from the apostle of poverty, renunciation and grace. “Suffer the little birdies to come unto St. Francis’s bowl, please, that they may drink their fill,” he prays, calling on Brother Sun and Sister Water to draw the twittering, helpless creatures near.
Some say Ito has become a zealot; others a hypocrite. I think the little angel hovering in the garden sees right through Ito, and does her best to keep the hummingbirds away whenever he comes to hear the saint’s evangel.
The very first view of LA, from 1847, looking down from Fort Hill to La Placita church and the Plaza. This was the enemy capital as Stockton saw it — and took it. On August 13, his Marines camped on the Plaza.
On August 13, 1846, Commodore Stockton led his footsore Marines, joined almost at the last minute by Maj. Fremont’s mounted California Battalion, into the nearly deserted capital of Alta California, El Ciudad de Los Angeles. Ten years later, in 1856, Fremont was the popular hero, a gold millionaire, a former California Senator, and running for President — the first, and very controversially anti-slavery, candidate of the Republican Party. During that election year, Stockton threw out a ghost-written pamphlet telling his own story as Fremont’s (nominal) commanding officer, and highlighting his own role as the true kick-ass hero of the California Theatre of the Mexican War. From the moment he took command of the Pacific Squadron in Monterey Bay, Stockton began planning his conquest of California. (Note that the following account of Stockton’s “pivot to aggression” was intended to be highly flattering of the Commodore’s independent character:)
“It must be admitted that it took great moral courage to assume the responsibility of the enterprise which Cmdr. Stockton thought it his duty to undertake. He had no precedent in U.S. history to guide him. He had no instructions which applied to the emergency. And we are informed that he held no council, with whose deliberations he might divide the responsibility of his decisions. His decisions were the result of his own patriotic sense of duty. Indeed, we have been informed that he has said, that from his departure from the United States, in the fall of 1845, to the close of his career in California, he never asked the advice of anyone, nor took any counsel in relation to any measure of importance…Having determined upon the most decisive measures, Commodore Stockton, assuming the command-in-chief, civil and military, issued his proclamation (at Monterey, July 23, 1846) placing the country under martial law.”
— A Sketch of the Life of Commodore Robert F. Stockton, With an Appendix, Etc. 1856
Monterey, at bay
Stockton’s Monterey martial-law proclamation shocked the Californios. It came on the heels of Commodore Sloat’s friendly proclamation of American possession-as-protectorate. California had been abandoned by Mexico, and Monterey had accepted Sloat’s gunboats without a murmur of resistance. But suddenly the benign, reassuring Sloat retired, and was replaced by Stockton. Acting entirely on his own initiative and out of his own prejudice against the Mexican nation, Stockton immediately insisted Alta California had committed bellicose outrages against the United States, chief amongst which was that:
“General [Jose] Castro, the commander-in-chief of the military forces of California, has violated every principle of international law and national hospitality (sic) by hunting and pursuing with several hundred soldiers, and with wicked intent (sic), Captain Fremont, of the United States Army, who came here to refresh his men, (about forty in number), after a perilous journey across the mountains on a scientific survey.”
[In other words, California deserved conquest, because her officers had dared to defend her against conquest. Remember, Patient Reader, that Capt. Fremont’s brigade had spent the last few months taunting Castro, refusing to leave the territory, leading him on a wild goose chase around Northern California, massacring and stirring up the Indians, and then stirring up any American “emigrants” they could find with tales that Castro and the Indians were planning to slaughter them. Fremont even seized the heights of Gavilan Peak, in sight of Castro’s camp, to run up the Stars and Stripes as a pre-emptive act of conquest-by-discovery — tee hee! — then pulled the flag down and – tee hee! — slipped away into the tules.]
“On assuming command of the forces of the United States on the coast of California, both by sea and land [a presumptuous assumption, Gen. Kearny of the Army would later declare] I find myself [sic] in possession of the ports of Monterey and San Francisco, with daily reports from the interior of scenes of rapine, blood and murder…I am constrained by every principle of national honor…to put an end at once, and by force, to the lawless depredations daily committed by General Castro’s men upon the persons and property of peaceful and unoffending [American] inhabitants…I cannot, therefore, confine my operations to the quiet and undisturbed possession of the defenceless ports of Monterey and San Francisco, while the people elsewhere are suffering from lawless violence, but will immediately march against those boasting and abusive chiefs, who…unless driven out, will with the aid of the hostile Indians, keep this beautiful country in a constant state of revolution and blood, as well as against all others who may be found in arms, or aiding and abetting General Castro.”
The Californios thus discovered they were not, in fact, going to be brought into the Union by a peaceful stroke of republican independence, which had been promised by Cmdr. Sloat, and anyway long-since negotiated between Gen. Vallejo and the U.S. consul Thomas Larkin. Stockton overruled all that patient diplomacy, in favor of a full-scale invasion and ravaging of the country, at his own behest and under his own personal direction, hostilities to be ended only upon his own personal satisfaction.
The Californians were further alarmed by the report that, at a party that night on the quarterdeck of the U.S.S. Congress, over cigars and brandy, Stockton got expansive, stared up at the stars twinkling through the lacy Monterey pines, and outlined his plans to punish, chastise, put the boot to, and in every way scorch the earth of California. If the Southern Californians dared keep up an insolent resistance, Stockton boasted, he looked forward to hoisting the flag over the capital of the territory, even if he had to wade through the Los Angeles Plaza with the blood of slain Mexicans lapping at the top of his boots. Or words to that effect. This report came from the Mexican officer Juan Maria Flores, who was standing right there when Stockton said it.
Southern California’s coast, with the port of “Pedro” and the town of “Angeles” marked, along with El Camino Real leading up from San Diego past “Sn. Luci Rey” and “Sn. Campistrano.”. The Homestead Museum reckons this as the oldest extant U.S. military map of the territory, found among the papers of an adjutant at Monterey, and dated July 17, 1847.
“On the 1st of August Commodore Stockton sailed with the Congress to…San Pedro, on the coast about thirty miles distant from the Ciudad de Los Angeles. He landed at once 350 sailors and Marines, established them in camp, and commenced drilling them for the service contemplated. [Upon receiving Castro’s offer of a parley and a truce until Washington and Mexico City worked out a peace, Stockton] …directed the messengers to return to their master, and inform him that the American commander intended to march immediately to Ciudad de Los Angeles; that General Castro should prepare to surrender his arms, disperse his forces, and require his men to return to their homes and demean themselves peaceably, under penalty of being dealt with in the most rigorous manner. He ordered them to tell Castro that he would not negotiate with him on any other terms than those of absolute submission to the authority of the President of the United States. Having, through an interpreter, delivered this message in the most fierce and offensive manner, and in a tone of voice significant of the most implacable and hostile determination, he waved them from his presence imperiously with the insulting imperative, “Vamose!”
On the 11th of August, Stockton commenced his march upon Delos Angeles. The enemy were often in sight, hovering on the brows of adjacent hills. The artillery and ammunition carts were dragged along by the sailors over hills and through tedious valleys of sand, but without complaint or reluctance. [The Marines camped that night at Rancho Cerritos, owned by American Jonathan “Don Juan” Temple.] On the 12th, as they approached within a few miles of Castro’s position, another courier arrived…with a pompous message: “that if he marched upon the town he would find it the grave of his men.” “Then,” said Stockton, “tell your general to have the bells ready to toll in the morning at eight o’clock, as I shall be there at that time.” He was there at that time; but the California general of couriers and despatches was unwilling to risk a battle. Evidently panic-stricken, without firing a gun, Castro broke up his camp, dispersed his forces…and fled in the direction of Sonora. His artillery fell into the hands of the Americans. His principal officers…Don Andres Pico and Don Juan Maria Flores, surrendered, and were set at liberty on their parole of honor not to serve against the United States in the war. Ciudad de Los Angeles capitulated without any specifications of terms, and on the 13th of August, Commodore Stockton took possession of the capital of California.”
— A Sketch of the Life of Commodore Robert F. Stockton, With an Appendix, Etc. (Derby & Jackson, 1856)– A Sketch of the Life of Commodore Robert F. Stockton, With an Appendix, Etc.
Thus Stockton took Los Angeles quietly, in the morning, without firing a shot. He marched his Marine band around the Plaza; did the honors with the colors; and set up his H.Q. in “Government House,” the old Isaac Williams adobe on Main Street. This casa had been bought by Pio Pico when he removed the political capital to LA in 1845, so the administration would have offices. It was also conveniently next door to “El Palacio”, the grand courtyard adobe of the wealthy American Don Abel Stearns, who was at that time serving as L.A.’s alcalde. Doubtless Dona Arcadia offered the Commodore and his officers the fine bedchambers. That evening the band took formation in the Plaza, and gave a lengthy pops concert. The music lured the wary Angelenos back from the hills and ravines where they had fled, and LA slept quietly that night,
But things would not remain quiet; Stockton’s rude taunts and baseless accusations of crimes against humanity, his self-serving saber-rattling, and his deliberate insults to their patriotic honor, had hardened the Southern Californios’ hearts to Yankee rule. They endured a month under the thumb of the officer that Stockton left in charge of the city, Marine Capt. Archibald Gillespie; then hot-head Sebula Varela issued his pronunciamiento, Generals Flores and Pico responded by renouncing their parole, and the Californios revolted against their overlords. It has been argued that Gillespie was no martinet, but that he was just following Stockton’s gall-and-wormwood orders: prohibiting LA’s duennas from accompanying their muchachas on the traditional posada around the Plaza, for instance, because it was “unlawful assembly.” The California Lancers constituted themselves under Flores, besieged the Marines up on treeless, waterless, Fort Hill, received their surrender, and marched them at gunpoint back onto their ships and out of the harbor at San Pedro. Stockton had underestimated the Californios, and over the next four months, this mistake would be paid for with American blood, as well as Mexican.
The El Camino Real bell on the Plaza, placed 1906.
Francisco Avila was born in Sinaloa in 1772, but after age 9 he grew up in, and with, Los Angeles. He was one of 9 children of Cornelio Avila, a private soldier in the army of New Spain, who was posted to Los Angeles in 1783. The town had only been founded two years before, and I conjecture Cornelio’s duties may have included service under Cpls. Verdugo and/or Arguello, who were charged by Gov. de Neve with founding and securing the infant pueblo on the site of the Tongva rancheria of Yangna.
I’ve found no record of Cornelio’s service to California, but it must have been greatly appreciated, for the family was extremely popular and became social leaders of the caste known as the “Californios”. [The “castizo” system of New Spain and early Mexico was just as important a social factor in the northernmost frontier territory of California as it was in the metropolis of Mexico City.] At any rate, Cornelio’s death in 1800 left the kids with his ranch lands and his good name as capital, which they used to advance the family greatly, by marriage as much as industry. Francisco served as alcalde of Los Angeles (1810-11), as did several of his brothers. During his year of pomp, Francscico married Maria Verdugo. The Avilas built their comfortable city casa on Wine Street in 1818, and planted the patio with vine cuttings from San Gabriel, the famous stock of La Vina Madre.
The courtyard has been re-planted with fruit trees and cholla, in the old style.
Pomegrantates, symbol of Old Granada
[Sadly, Maria died in 1822. But in 1823, Francisco was granted his own 4,400-acre spread at Rancho Las Cienegas, “The Wetlands.” It was one of the finest sites in Southern California, for the LA River ran through it and kept it well-watered. The next year, 1824, Francisco married Encarnacion Sepulveda, enlarging the family’s holdings. But whereas man proposes, God disposes: in 1825, an earthquake shifted the entire course of the LA River away from Las Cienegas. While this may not have been a disaster for the ranch in the immediate term, as the springs and wells and marshes remained moist, it certainly caused headaches for later generations trying to fix their land grant boundaries. It seems there was no “diseno” drawn for the property, possibly because the river’s change of course may have stymied the boundaries. The grant wasn’t conceded to the heirs until 1871, aptly by Pres. Grant.]