Category Archives: maps

Rancho El Escorpion — The Las Virgenes Preserve — Castle Peak, or “Kas-ele-wu” — Munits’s Cave — Juan Baptista de Anza Trail — Yowza! — Hellzapoppin!

Follow Van Owen Boulevard to its western terminus, the bland Castle Peak Estates neighborhood of West Hills. Park outside somebody’s house, then cross the street to the trailhead, and discover this…fantastic place…

A last remnant of the old square-league Rancho El Escorpion de Salinas, the park is just a three-acre postage-stamp, consisting of a secluded canada in the Simi Hills, entered along a creek bed. There is a two-mile loop trail with a steep ascent to the top of the ridge and down again.

The site of Rancho El Escorpion, straddling Bell Creek, at the foot of the Simi Hills. Only the upper left corner is preserved today. The yellow line is the route of El Camino Real. Where it enters the Simi Hills, lies Calabasas, where the rancho’s adobe was built.

The history of El Escorpion Ranch reads like a Garcia-Marquez novel. It was a grazing concession rather than a land-grant, which led to all kinds of later complications with Yankee law. Also, El Escorpion was one of the very few land-reform acts of Gov. Pio Pico (1845) that actually benefitted Indians, in this case a group of three or four Chumash who had been acculturated at Mission San Fernando.

One of their descendants, Espiritu Chujilla, inherited use of the land in 1856. She married a brusque Basque sheepherder in 1871, raising him considerably in the world by allowing him to take possession of El Escorpion. His name was Miguel Leonis, and he was a sonofabitch, who ran almost everybody else off the West Valley, exploited his wife and her Indian relatives, and ruled by a gang of ruffians that was almost a private army. He built his adobe headquarters right down at the crossroads of El Camino Real, possibly to intimidate arriving travelers. That hacienda grew into the town of Calabasas.

An illiterate, litigious louse, Leonis got drunk one night in 1881 returning from the LA Courthouse, and somehow got run over by his own wagon while driving over Cahuenga Pass. His widow, Espirtu, lived on at Calabasas until 1906, fighting spiritedly as over 100 Yankee lawsuits chipped away at her inheritance. Her rights were finally affirmed by a U.S. court when there was no land left and she had months to live.

The stretch of trail leading out of the Valley, which was the ranch road, also happens to be the Juan Baptista de Anza Trail, the pioneer land-route from Arizona to San Francisco, blazed by the Captain of Tubac in 1775. Here, following the Indians’ trail, as did Anza, one can view this lush canada more or less as the Spanish first trooped through it. One can imagine what Chumash eyes, up on the ridge, made of the clanking, glinting, creaky-wheeled, horsey-smelling procession marching through their front hallway, singing the ribald ditties of Old Spain.

The park fills in the last mile of the City and County of LA; soon the trail hits the Ventura County line. From there, one can turn right to stay in LA and climb the peak; or continue on with the creek, passing into the vast lands of another old rancho, the former Ahmanson Ranch. This is also now a park, called the Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve. Nestled in all this, El Escorpion provides the illusion of being A World Away From LA.

Kas-ele-wu marks the eastern border of the Southern Chumash. The Chumash revere mountains as centers of astronomical observation; Kas-ele-wu, which the Yankees heard as “Castle,” was a resort especially around the winter solstice. There was a rancheria under the peak. I guess it was at the entrada, the sheltered glen where the subdivision now sprawls. The ridge looks over an unparalleled View of the San Fernando Plain.

Click to access hssc97-3_jjohnson.pdf

Click above for an article on how the Indians were reduced at Mission San Fernando.

You’d think it would be easy to identify these cute pink-and-white five-petaled chaparral flowers. It ain’t.

The ridge is Swiss-cheesey with caves and tunnels: the largest is Munits’s Cave, supposedly inhabited by resident shamans as a meeting place, audience chamber, or sanctuary. Momoy, the sacred plant of the ?antap religion, still grows at the site. Momoy doctors, most likely from here, brought preparations of the psychedelic to the Tongva and Tataviam rancherias on the Valley floor, integrating momoy consumption to the Chinigchinich cult down there. There are no glyphs or rock paintings in or around the caves, so whatever the site meant to the Chumash, it wasn’t a place for artistic expression.

Bats supposedly live here; and certainly a family of huge ravens who were ominously concerned about me, croaking and calling and gliding overhead. There were also big hawks (harriers?) patrolling; the south-facing slope rising from the cool creek bed must produce awesome thermals.

[This sounds like a fishing story, but indulge me. As I was climbing up the chute to the cave, clinging to handholds and worrying about scorpions, I felt a large bird soar out of a cleft, maybe fifty feet overhead. Past the visor of my cap, I swear I saw — felt — a California condor. I later learned it is true that condors do range the Simi Hills. From the corner of my eye it seemed — looked — like a i$%ng huge turkey vulture, the Arnold Schwarzenegger of turkey vultures, and probably it was. But — again I swear — I believe — I felt the air cool about my head for a second or two, as the shadow, or downdraft, of its huge wings glided over me. I shivered and craned my neck to try to grasp a wingspan so immense, but my optics failed to click, failed to correlate how big it seemed, with how close it seemed — coordinates my brain could only add up as One Scary Bird. It wheeled off on a thermal and was out of sight over the ridge before I could breathe again. I was too awed to continue on with the dangerous work of scrambling up into the cave, so I took some quick snaps and levered myself back down the cliff. Maybe I just got some momoy juice on my hands.]

The place is pregnant with Big Medicine. The only other places in the Valley that I’ve “felt” the buzz of human pre-history this strongly, are in the Pacoima Hills, where the Tataviam had their crow’s nest Viewpoint; and the Cahuenga Pass, where the Tongva had their overlook of the Valley to the north. But those other places are developed to Hell; this one is close to how the Chumash themselves would have experienced it.

Los Angeles in 1871

This is the best interactive map of Old LA I’ve ever seen — it’s easy on the eyes, and almost all of the key historical sites are enumerated. It’s fun to zoom around the page and poke around at different “altitudes.” The city is still a farm town, but now a Yankee one — bristling with commercial blocks, theatres, hotels, fenced farmyards, and a rail link from Wolfskill’s Orchards to San Pedro. Have fun, and thank the Library of Congress.

https://www.loc.gov/resource/g4364l.pm000231/

The Larger Scheme Of Things

No Patient Reader would regret pouring a glass of wine, shutting off the phone for an hour, and clicking on the link below. It leads to an animation of the projected and retrojected movements of the continents, according to the theory of Continental Drift, with pop-up captions in the timeline noting such milestones as “the rise of cyanobacteria” and “The Sudbury Impact” and “first true plants appear on land.” You can get hooked on pausing and re-starting, and sliding the viewer back and forth to re-trace trends or events you’d earlier missed.

The animation keeps a running log of what the global temperature was as the Earth cooled, and then warmed. It also notes the composition of the atmosophere, so you can watch aghast as, for instance, the amount of waste oxygen in the air begins to turn the oceans red, and kills almost every organism alive at the time. But of course, then comes the rise of the oxygen-breathers, and Life takes off again, at its famous pace of Leaps and Bounds.

The View Is Bullish On Stockton…

Okay, so Stockton can’t actually afford a bull. Still, “America’s Furthest-Inland Deep-Water Port” remains proud of its bears.

STOCKTON IS THE MOST ETHNICALLY AND RACIALLY DIVERSE CITY IN AMERICA!

https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2020/jan/23/california-most-diverse-city-stockton

Leading citizen Prof. Ken Albala, representing the Sephardim. Stockton has one of the oldest Jewish congregations in the American West, founded, right along with the town, in 1850.

If ever a city deserved a shot in the arm….er, I mean, a bit of publicity, it is the Seat of San Joaquin.

This “Ground Zero for Underwater Homes” has been on the ropes, economically, since the 2007 housing collapse. Stockton recently emerged from the civic bankruptcy of that time, but investment capital seems sparse and downtown is a ghost town, haunted by the homeless. I just re-checked the photos from my recent walk through there with Ken — bleakness was obviously my main impression.

Stockton, at last, has something officially fabulous to celebrate. Diversity and variety are the sine-qua-non of civilization. I hope Stockton capitalizes on this by holding a kind of Municipal Exposition, a month-long fair downtown. They should ask all the different ethnic communities to make exhibits in and of their neighborhoods, homes and businesses, showcasing all the different foods and music and culture and languages and literatures