Tag Archives: William Wolfskill

The Cornfield — Chinatown Yards — Zanja Madre

OLD STOCK: I visited here back in December; I had a great time, but I thought the pics were too gloomy to share. Well, today we’re having the same gloom, and if I went today it would look just like this; so enjoy this post AS IF it were today. [“It’s Today!” — Mame Dennis.]

Down on what was once the sloping bank of the LA river, just above, and north, of where it used to flow past the LA Plaza; and right off the shoulder, as it were, of Chinatown; lies a length of land along the railroad tracks that was used by the Santa Fe Railroad for a half century or more, to store old rolling stock.

Here’s the State Parks’ history; and another from the DWP — both fascinating, fascinating.

https://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=25964

https://waterandpower.org/museum/Early_City_Views%20(1800s)_Page_1.html

Early, the site had been used by the pobladores to grow maize, which consistently still sprouted there; or else, alternate legend went, the early 20th c. Mexican population in nearby Aliso Gardens would guerrilla-farm maize, on plots scratched between the tracks. The two legends don’t conflict; nor does the legend that the left-over kernels from box cars used to haul corn sprouted (though much less likely to me; wheat, not corn, would sprout there.) But whatever, this long agro-industrial lot was called alternately, one of the two epithets in the title above.

Then the railroad was going to sell it for a 66-shed shipping warehouse complex. The citizens of Chinatown, and other nearby struggling neighborhoods like Chavez Ravine and Frogtown, fought and fought and (this a damn RAILROAD, remember, even in the 21st century they are thieves) fought and fought and fought for YEARS, and finally three years ago they won, and as of about a year ago, this is the emerald they have won for all Angelenos, Los Angeles State Historic Park. Ole.

Archaeologically, this site is very important, for they discovered the original Zanja Madre, the “Mother Ditch” of Los Angeles, the original 1781 waterworks channel laid out by the pobladores to channel water from tanks upstream, near Elysian Park, along the wide but dry bed of the river, and into (and out of) a cistern the center of the Plaza.

Because of the upstream advantage, there was a huge water wheel somewhere here for power-pumping. And the site was chosen by Don Abel Stearns to build the first flour mill in California, 1828 (?) right there on Spring Street with its wheels in the zanja channel, somehow contrived. (Don Abel; Yankee; not Jewish.) It continued as “Capitol Mills,” got generally absorbed into Chinatown for 80 years, and is now being renovated for condos. Thank the Angels they didn’t tear it down.

Thrilling to me, is that they have given downtown a glimpse of a re-wilded stream course, very chic, with granite benches down in the stream bed (instead of river boulders) and plenty of native plants, including tules, above.

Most exciting of all, is that they gave over a long stretch of (well-irrigated) ground to planters holding an orchard of Valencia oranges, only a mile upstream from William Wolfskill’s Orchard, where the strain was developed in the 1860s, out of old Mission stock and fancy, smuggled strains brought by the Chinese. That there is a Valencia grove here, thriving for the community, within the very same river bottom and microrhyzal network from which the fruit first sprung, makes my heart sing.

They have graced the outside of each planter with a pithy reminiscence from the old-time locals who lived here, and who fought for this place, and who came to Los Angeles and made it better. Bless them, Angels.

What happened to the River? Uplift! This blimp shot shows how the plain, left, slid under the big green rock that is Elysian Park, which rose up a bit, adding a new crinkle to the riverbed, about where the Gold Line train is. That made the Cornfield rise a bit, lifting it above the plain, which then took the new gush of the River away from the Pueblo.
Cpl. Arguello’s plan was never carried out in this orderly way, but nevertheless the land that became “the Cornfield” is very clear here: basically, the entire empty upper quadrant of the plan. The line to the left is Zanja Madre, the line to the right, the stream of El Rio. The reason the river no longer flows this close to the Plaza, and why the Cornfield was left high and dry, is the massive earthquake of 1825, which shifted the course of the river to its current Long Beach outflow, from the Venice outflow where it had been during settlement.

The Golden Globes

In the Golden Year, Aldous Huxley novelized the experience of being driven over Cahuenga Pass and down into the heart of the San Fernando Valley:

“Below them lay a great tawny plain, chequered with patches of green and dotted with white houses. On its further side, fifteen or twenty miles away, ranges of pinkish mountains fretted the horizon. “Whats this?” Jeremy asked. “The San Fernando Valley,” answered the chauffeur. He pointed his finger into the middle distance. “That’s where Groucho Marx has his place! Yes, sir.”

At the bottom of the hill, the car turned left along a wide road that ran, a ribbon of concrete and suburban buildings, through the plain [Ventura Blvd.]. The chauffeur put on speed; sign succeeded sign with bewildering rapidity — BLOCK LONG HOT DOGS and BUY YOUR DREAM HOME NOW! And behind the signs the mathematically planted rows of apricot and walnut trees flicked past [NoHo, Studio City, Sherman Oaks] — a succession of glimpsed perspectives preceded and followed every time by fan-like approaches and retirements.

Dark green and gold, enormous orange orchards maneuvered, each a mile-square regiment glittering in the sun. Far off, the mountains traced their un-interpretable graph of boom and slump. “Tarzana!” said the chauffeur, startlingly; and there, sure enough, was the name suspended in white letters across the road. Meanwhile the mountains on the northern edge of the Valley were approaching, and, slanting in from the west, another range was looming up to the left. The orange groves gave place for a few miles to fields of alfalfa and dry and dusty grass. then returned again to groves, more luxuriant than ever.

— Aldous Huxley, After Many A Summer Dies The Swan, 1939

“The Citrus Belt complex of peoples, institutions and relationships has no parallel in rural life in America and nothing quite like it exists elsewhere in California. It is neither town nor country, neither rural nor urban. It is a world of its own.”

— Carey McWillians, Southern California: An Island On The Land, 1942.

“For the orange, as Charles Fletcher Lummis pointed out, is not only a fruit but a romance. The orange tree is the living symbol of richness, luxury and elegance. With its rich black-green shade, its evergreen foliage, and its romantic fragrance, it is the millionaire of all the trees in America, the “golden apple’ of the fabled Garden of the Hesperides. The aristocrat of the orchards, it has, by natural affinity, drawn to it the rich and the well-born, creating a unique type of urban-rural aristocracy. There is no crop in the whole range of American agriculture the growing of which confers quite the same status that is associated with ownership of an orange grove…to own an orange grove in Southern California is to live on the real gold coast of American agriculture.”

— Carey McWilliams

The last big grove of Valencia oranges in the Valley is this one, on the campus of Cal Sate University Northridge. Planted in 1940, it was already there when San Fernando State College opened in and around it, in 1952. The town of “Northridge” was originally named “Zelzah.” But in the early 20th century, Valencia orange farmers looking to make fortunes wanted to be on the right kind of land at the right elevation with the right soil, at the northern edge of the Valley. So to lure wealthy East Coast settlers to put in groves, the town changed its name to “Northridge.”

Few other American cities can boast that they are the native soil of a major agricultural crop. Los Angeles is the mother of the Valencia orange, and pioneer immigrant William Wolfskill was the father. A mountain man and fur trapper who settled in Taos in 1821, Wolfskill became a naturalized Mexican citizen, which meant he could own land. He arrived in LA in 1831, along the Santa Fe Trail. He passed through San Gabriel Mission; there he ate at Eulalia’s sumptuous table, talked with the curious Padres, and first laid eyes on an orange grove. These were the first oranges in California, planted in 1804 by the homesick Franciscans. Ten miles later, Wolfskill forded the muddy Rio de Los Angeles. It may have been a flash of vision and entrepreneurial inspiration, but he grasped that the lush river bottom lapping the edge of the sun-drenched adobe pueblo was the Garden of Eden, that here fruit of all kinds could be produced in abundance, and that there might be a world market for it. He settled in LA, and eventually bought Louis Vignes’s famous El Aliso Vineyards, which had been California’s original agribusiness. [Vignes had founded his winery under the shade of the mighty sycamore tree, El Aliso, that for generations sheltered the Tongva rancheria of Yang-na.]

During and after the Yankee conquest, cultivating all kinds of crops, Wolfskill worked to spin the Franciscans’ abandoned orange trees into California gold. He turned the sandy flats east of the Plaza into California’s first commercial agricultural and horticultural laboratory. [Today, the nursery site is covered by Union Station’s sprawl of parking lots, trackbeds and platforms.] Using the Mission stock, selecting and cross-breeding with other, probably Asian strains, he created the perfect orange for Southern California’s foggy coastal valleys and cool, well-watered plains. Wolfskill’s career as an agribusiness tycoon put Southern California at the center of world commerce. As a bottom-line matter, consider that the Southern Pacific Railroad based its decision to come to Los Angeles on the economic potential of horticulture and produce freighting; and when they did, they laid the tracks and parked the depot adjacent to the orchard’s front gate for economy of shipping. [Somewhere in all this, probably when the depot was built, Yang-na’s sacred old El Aliso sycamore came down.] Wolfskill later developed groves south of LA around Santa Ana, laying the foundation for what became Orange County.

“Wolfskill was highly influential in the development of California’s agricultural industry in the 19th century, establishing an expanded viticulture and becoming the largest wine producer in the region. One of the wealthiest men of his time, he expanded his holdings, running sheep and cultivating oranges, lemons and other crops. He is credited with establishing the state’s citrus industry and developing the Valencia orange. It became the most popular juice orange in the United States and was the origin of the name of Valencia, California.”

— Wikipedia article on Wolfskill

“‘Of all the trees,” wrote Charles Fletcher Lummis,”that man has corseted to uniform symmetry and fattened for his use, none is more beautiful and none more grateful than the orange.’ It has certainly been the gold nugget of Southern California. Not only has it attracted fully as many people to California as did the discovery of gold, but since 1903 the annual value of the orange crop has vastly exceeded the value of gold produced. With an average annual income of one thousand dollars an acre, it is not surprising that the orange should be a sacred tree in California.”

— Carey McWilliams, writing of 1942 dollars
The big groves are gone forever, but the mystique of Los Angeles still includes the promise of a backyard juice tree. The struggling screenwriter of myth still has only to throw on his or her bathrobe each morning, and reach out the kitchen window, to squeeze a golden orb of sunny vitamins into a breakfast glass. Whether or not that glass also contains vodka, depends on the screenwriter.

The Alta California Fan Palm

Washingtonia filifera. This is the only palm tree native to the U.S. State of California. It is the northern species, or sub-species, of a residual genus, Washingtonia, that was once abundant in a wide area of the Southwest. Now, in the wild it is limited to favored canyons, a thin ribbon of springs and watercourses hugging the border, through the Anza-Borrego and the Colorado desert, into Arizona and New Mexico. It has naturalized in Texas and Florida, where some consider it invasive.

Washingtonia palms, of which there are three species or sub-species (more, anon) were classified and named in 1879 by German botanist Herman von Wendland. Apparently, the only thing he knew about the plants, apart from the most intimate details of their anatomy, reproduction, natural history and comparative botany, was that they came from someplace in America, so he called them after George Washington. Sweet.

Like all palms, they are not trees, but grasses. Unlike most grasses, however, Washingtonias can live for 500 years. Their nuts are tasty to wildlife (and humans) and they have had no problem reproducing themselves in the well-watered suburban sprawl of the Southland. Washingtonias love to grow cheek-by-jowl with their kin. Often you can find volunteer seedlings by the score per square foot, say, in a freeway median or a crack in a sidewalk. I’m told they can be mowed into a turf. They can be potted, as see. This was a volunteer seedling in our container garden.

Looking at the sun through the underside of the fan.

The Cahuilla Indians of Palm Springs provide public access to hiking among these ancient wonders in their historic homelands, Palm Canyon, Indian Canyon and Andreas Canyon. There are also oases in Joshua Tree National Park. Nobody can forget the awe-striking forests of columns, the primeval gray-green of their hairy leaves, glistening in the Coachella Valley sunshine, or the shaggy long petticoats that make them seem like a corps of dancing girls.

Here are the famous California fan palms of San Fernando, the first Washingtonia palms planted in what became the City of Los Angeles, probably by Franciscans in the 1820s. For many years they were a tourist attraction, but I can’t discover what happened to these trees.

The petticoats are full. The man in the hat, I think, is Abbott Kinney; and the lady in the carriage, looking longingly at the Convento, is Helen Hunt Jackson, gathering local color for “Ramona”.
…dry wheat farming…feral olive trees…and lo, there was another fan palm on the Rancho Ex-San Fernando; possibly the oldest. It is rarely seen in photos.

HOW TO TELL A FILIFERA:

  • Stately and imposing, beautifully proportioned, with a large open crown and a straight thick trunk shaped like a column in an ancient temple.
  • The fan-shaped leaves are tipped with distinct threads.
  • In the field, they are marcesent, meaning they keep their “petticoats” in a tight nap to the trunks, appearing neat, but shaggy. The Cahuilla tended the oases by strategically burning off the petticoats, making the trunks easier to climb. In the city they are usually trimmed, for rats and other urban critters love them.
Filifera means “thread-bearer.” The tips of the fronds trail wisps of thread.