Welcome to the blog of writer and musician Andrew Martin. Here I'll post original photographs and observations as I encounter the history and culture of the San Fernando Valley, the City of the Angels, Alta California and the far-flung Pacific Rim… but mostly the Valley.
Mom and Dad shared with all of their kids, their own love of American history and the importance and fun of celebrating social customs. Dad took me trick-or-treating for the first time with Chris in 1969. Dad carried a flashlight and we boys were dressed as cowboys and Indians and I’ve loved Halloween and the West, and bandanas, ever since. Bless you Dad, thank you sir, rest in peace.
By the tricks of goblins, Larry Freedman joined me, and our treat (his treat) was a stroll around the Plaza and French-dip lamb with bleu cheese and Lagunitas at Phillipe’s!First restaurant (parking lot-beer garden) since Covid-19.
The Camposanto at La Placita, taken back to the CFP from a dry goods, a hardware store, a parking lot. RIP.
During 30 years of living in LA I’ve watched Dias de los Muertos observances move from underground to mainstream.Since LA’s monuments are often draped in skulls this time of year, I’ve come to love it as a special time, an invitation to honor the pioneers’ struggles and to learn their wisdoms.
Don Felipe de Neve, governor of Las Californias and founder of LA, RIP
This year, Halloween just didn’t exist. Nobody was in costume, no parties, no trick-or-treaters, no giggling Cleopatras getting into Ubers on the corner. With coronavirus aflame in lungs across the land, it is impossible to celebrate Halloween; bobbing for apples is right out. But it’s still the most beautiful season to honor the dead. I went to San Gabriel Mission, mother of Los Angeles.
The dead who built Mission San Gabriel, and Los Angeles, who lie in this historic cemetery, and at La Placita, are sending generations worth of bi-lingual love and the special grace of the Angels, to poor gutted-out Mission San Gabriel. I was happy to see a first-class historic preservation team is at work putting up a temporary roof against the advent of the rains — while they….figure out how to save the building.
THE THEATRE OF CONVERSION, Part 6: Drama, Music, Art and Architecture at Mission Santa Barbara
Vintage postcard. Note the bells, and the illumination of the ‘scaena’.
Saint Barbara, with her Tower, is the patroness-saint of cannons and arsenals. Thus Gov. Felipe de Neve thought it a good name for the fortified presidio town he decreed in 1782, to control the Channel. It took four more years, and administration changes, for the Franciscans to get their chance to evangelize there. The Chumash lived on the beach at Yanonalit, the place of their chief Yanonali, and also in the islands nearby in great numbers, in great sophistication, and in great contentment. When the Franciscans trooped up the hill on Dec. 4th, the Feast of St. Barbara, to evangelize the Chumash, the friars relied upon their own arsenal: not bronze ordnance but bells, and a creche. Dec. 6th, only two days after the founding, was the Feast of St. Nick, or Sinter Klaas, and then, bang, it’s Advent. At Christmastide, Franciscans staged of colorful pageants to re-enact the story of Peace on Earth — angels, shepherds, Wise Men and all. Each night of Christmas there would be a choir outside the church singing Spanish songs — not Latin — and a simple mystery play with locals taking part as, for instance, shepherds adoring the creche. “Creche” derives from the Italian town of Greccio:
“Now three years before [St. Francis’s] death it befell that he was minded, at the town of Greccio, to celebrate the memory of the Birth of the Child Jesus, with all the added solemnity that he might, for the kindling of devotion. That this might not seem an innovation, he sought and obtained license from the Supreme Pontiff, and then made ready a manger, and bade hay, together with an ox and an ass, be brought unto the spot. The Brethren were called together, the folk assembled, the wood echoed with their voices, and that august night was made radiant and solemn with many bright lights, and with tuneful and sonorous praises. The man of God, filled with tender love, stood before the manger, bathed in tears, and overflowing with joy. Solemn Masses were celebrated over the manger, Francis, the Levite of Christ, chanting the Holy Gospel. Then he preached unto the folk standing round of the Birth of the King in poverty, calling Him, when he wished to name Him, the Child of Bethlehem, by reason of his tender love for Him.“
— St. Bonaventure, The Life of St. Francis of Assisi
Santa Barbara has set up its creche, with live ox and ass, or at least sheep and donkeys, since the 18th century. It ought to be remembered that domesticated stock animals like sheep were completely alien to California. It must have taken years for even motivated and observant Chumash neophytes to understand the associations between these bleating sheep with their wooly fleeces, and the approved lowliness of the shepherds in the Nativity story, and the god in the manger, and the fine gray woolen robes the Franciscans wore, and the coarse, scratchy white ponchos and pantaloons all neophytes would be forced to weave and wear and wash, too. The Christmas shepherds’ gift to the proudly naked Chumash, it turned out, was laundry.
The lavenderia, or wash-trough, on the Mission grounds. The neophytes would lay out woolens on the sloping mortared-stone sides to soap them and beat out the soil, then rinse the garments in the flowing central trough. Finally, they would dry them down on the sunny slope where the Rose Garden now wows visitors. Back-breaking work, yes, but it’s a nice view of the bay. That’s very Franciscan.“You missed a spot, Maria.”
The Franciscans evangelized here as they had in Spain and Mexico for centuries; at Christmas that meant staging a midnight pageant, in a tabernacle, or on the front steps of the town church. In many cases in Italy and Southern Europe this had been an old Roman temple. Thus it is likely that the wide front porch, and the serene Classical facade rising behind it like the scaena in a Roman theatre, were at least in part designed, or at least used, for the staging of pageants, proclamations and concerts. We know that the Franciscans enacted these Christmas plays out of doors. Versions of these plays survived in Santa Barbara from oral traditions brought from Mexico. They are among the very few literary productions of Alta California.
La Pastorela, the Shepherds Play, was written down from memory by Pablo de la Guerra in the 1860’s. It has been revived and is performed in Santa Barbara every holiday season. It tells the adventures of three shepherds, traveling the road to Bethlehem with their gifts for the manger. (Franciscans also produced pageants of the Three Kings, the Flight into Egypt, etc.)
PREACHING TO THE CHOIR
St. Francis was a former troubadour, sang incessantly, and composed songs and canticles. Music and common musical celebration, i.e., singing together, are indispensable to Franciscan Christianity. This was even more important in California, where, not surprisingly, those Indians with the greatest aptitude for music were the Indians who learned Spanish the fastest.
“The scarcity of first-language Spanish speakers at the Missions — customarily consisting of the priests, a mayordomo, and three or four soldiers for a guard — meant that musicians had the greatest access to priests and thus greater exposure to Spanish language than did other Indians. Music instruction, rather than formal education, had been the aide for language adoption….By joining the choir, Indians had chosen to learn the new music and to learn enough Spanish to cooperate with the priest in their joint venture. Although Indians learned from the priest, they shared their talents with him. Reciprocity, rather than simple dominance, characterized these clerical events.”
— James A. Sandos, Converting California, 2004
Thus in California, building a fine neophyte choir for each Mission was among a missionary’s proudest achievements. (All agreed the finest choir was that led by Fr. Narciso Duran, at Mission San Jose.)
Fr. Duran strikes up the band at rehearsal; and rewards a singer with a piece of fruit, for blending.
Plainsong is words set to music; to learn the music, learn the words.
Even the most advanced European masses and motets were performed at the Missions, as proved by the scores found in the music libraries. European explorers and visitors to California, who had heard choirs and orchestras in Paris and Rome and London and Madrid and Mexico City, remarked on all the Mission musicians with favor.
“The most outstanding trait of these Indians is their inclination for music. In the missions they learn soon and easily to play the violin, the cello, etc., and to sing together in such a manner that they can perform the music for the Mass of a very complicated harmony, certainly better than the peasants of our land could learn after years of study.”
— Pedro Botta, doctor on a visiting French ship. Cited by James A. Sandos in “Converting California”, 2004
Leather-head drums, the vaquero’s Spanish guitar, the Presidio’s hot Spanish trumpets, the shepherds’ horns and pipes, the bass viol and bass guitar, even the keyboards in the form of the quasi-mythical San Jose organ, all came together in the California Indian Mission Band. And this musical seed burst into musical fruit out on the Ranchos, a century later. The Missions are the real mothers of American Western Music.
BUILDING AND DECORATING THE MISSION
Santa Barbara was Fr. Lasuen’s homage to the mother church of Mexico, the Metropolitan Cathedral on the Zocalo in Mexico City, the church and plaza decreed by Cortes upon the ruins of Tenochtitlan.
Santa Barbara Mission was founded by Fr. Fermin Lasuen, the second Father President of the Missions. a Basque recruited to the College of San Fernando in Mexico City. He was the real father of California vernacular architecture. Lasuen transformed the tule-thatched, stockaded missions into the architectural emblems of Spanish California. Lasuen specially recruited European colonist-master-craftsmen. Here, as later at San Fernando, guild carpenters, stone-cutters, masons, sculptors, music masters, instrument makers, and choir directors, from France, Spain, and Italy, taught Chumash artists 18th-century European artistic techniques.
The rear of the church. It is handsomely built of cut stone, in a practical Southern Mediterranean style that St Francis would have known back in Assisi; or that Fr. Lasuen knew, six centuries later, during his Basque childhood..
The dado has extravagantly psychedlic marbeling that blends to a golden shimmer, suggesting irridescence.
The pilasters and cornice are painted rose and white to recall porphyry.
Chumash petroglyphs. Note the saw-tooth star discs, which made it onto the ceiling at Santa Barbara.
Chumash decorative skill and artistic traditions, applying Vitruvius’s Roman rules, made Santa Barbara, appropriately, the real bombshell of the Missions. Coast Chumash have one of the most ancient and developed fine arts traditions of all the Southwest tribes, including symbolist religious painting, rock and sand paintings, groovy and intricately executed body art, and imposing stone carvings. A Chumash neophyte at Santa Barbara produced the very first European-style sculpture in California. Lions in fountains is an old Spanish trope; but here it is a Native American animal, Puma concolor, stylishly interpreted by a Native American artist. Later Chumash artists added allegorical statues to the facade.
This fantastic mountain lion forms the fountain-head of the massive lavenderia, or wash trough.Chumash sculptors graced the pediment with four statues: “At the center apex, Hope is seen seated with an anchor in her lap; Faith is seen seated at the left corner holding a cross; and Charity is at the right corner, holding a young child in her lap. The figure of Santa Barbara stands in a niche under the apex and holds a chalice in her proper right hand. Her skirt is decorated with a relief of a tower, her attribute.” — From the 1927 Smithsonian Catalogue of California Mission Art
Of all the Missions, only Santa Barbara managed to survive Alta California’s chaotic history more or less intact, with Franciscans serving mass on-site, from the 18th century to today, through lean times and fat. As the other Missions were abandoned after secularization, the padres at Santa Barbara worked to preserve their libraries, archives, and as much as they could of the art and more or less gilded liturgical paraphernalia. This allowed Santa Barbara to excel in another European art, that of history. Most of the finest Franciscan historians of California have been brothers at Santa Barbara, including the famous Fr. Zephyrin Engelhardt.
Fr. Zephyryn Engelhardt, prolific scholar of Alta California, is buried in the friars’ crypt in Santa Barbara’s cemeterio.The Spanish “river of life” motif, traditional on doors, was carved by Chumash woodworkers for the gift shop entrance.
The City of the Queen of the Angels was founded on September 4, 1781 (as a “Pueblo”). Gov. Felipe de Neve selected the site himself. It was directly adjacent to the Tongva rancheria of Yangna, along the Rio de la Porciuncula (which thereby became the Rio de Los Angeles). A major landmark in that sandy stretch of bottomland was El Aliso, the huge and ancient sycamore tree on the bank. The tree was the center of Yangna, and its shade and shelter. (Roughly, where Union Station’s Restaurant stands today.)
Tongva neophytes like these may have left, or been forced out of, Yangna, to live at Mission San Gabriel — in the process becoming “Gabrielenos.” But they and their family members may also have worked to build LA.
The Pobladores were skilled farmers, recruited from Sonora and Sinaloa in Mexico, and they walked here with their families and animals — first to San Gabriel Mission, which was the staging area, and administrative and supply base, for the settlement of the farm town. When all the emigrant parties had assembled on the morning of the 4th, the full party marched to the Yangna site, received their lots and farming tools, and a small civil ceremony was observed. Any family who stayed and farmed for four years would, and did, receive the deeds to their town lot and their arable fields. (Thus September, 1785, would mark the unofficial start of the game of “LA Wheel Estate.”)
Mission San Gabriel Archangel
The original site plan; this first version of the settlement was flooded out, but the same general configuration prevailed each time LA was re-sited.
The plan had a central Plaza, and a guard house, a spot for the eventual Placita church, and about a dozen house lots, each of which was assigned an irrigated strip of field along the river, and a non-irrigated strip for pasture or dry farming. By the Spanish code, municipal lands surrounded the town for one square league, and the streets were to be set on a diagonal to the cardinal compass points — for reasons that we would call today “passive solar” and “windscaping.” (Would that the modern city had kept the Downtown plan; it diminishes the “heat island” effect. Set on the Spanish Axis, LA’s carbon footprint would have been greatly reduced, forever, for free. Ah well. We also shouldn’t have axed the Red Cars.)
The city and citizenry had to be moved (twice) to higher plateaus as the River proved unruly; the Queen of the Angels finally settled in place only in 1818, and by 1824 the new adobe Plaza Church, Nuestra Senora La Reina De Los Angeles was dedicated. Of course, it was the Tongva of Yangna who performed most of the labor of building the adobe pueblo, and its last siting pretty much did in the old village of Yangna. El Aliso was all that was left along the River; Aliso Street took its shade to ford the River. The old sycamore tree became the brand name and logo of the El Aliso Winery, California’s very first international trademark (1842).
Most of the Tongva had been received at the Mission as Gabrielenos, but a few stayed around the new village and participated in the “secular economy”, which was the whole reason for the town’s founding. These Indian Angelenos dug the vegetable beds and tended the vines and piled the adobe bricks, learning these trades and taking some kind of goods in exchange, certainly clothing. It wasn’t forced labor, exactly, though it surely was exploitation. Anyway by the time the third Plaza was laid out and the zanjas were graded, Yangna had ceased to exist. The non-Mission Indians did continue to live right down by the River where they always had — but now those huts were “slums”, and the Indians were assimilated into the Spanish-speaking, floating urban proletariat of the Angelenos.
My initials, above the main door…hmmm
To honor the great and beautiful city that has grown out of the dusty pueblo, the View presents photos of the metropolis, garbed in but a few of her diverse raiments.
Pico House, on the Plaza
California pepper tree on Olvera St.
Ye Olde Taco House, on Hill St. since 1962.
City Hall, 1927
The old LA Times Building; and Bunker Hill
Walt Disney Concert Hall, right
Ghastly Pershing Square
The Biltmore
Chazzerai. Pershing Square should be renamed “Felipe De Neve Square” and all this junk redistributed.
MacArthur Park
The Bradbury Building reflecting “The Pope of Broadway”
DGA Awards; Kenny Ortega gets his star (below)
UCLA
Mission San Fernando Rey de Espana
Van Nuys Civic Center
And, of course, Beautiful Valley Village. It’s only a tiny district of a great historic Megalopolis, but it is as unique, vital and important to the whole, as any of LA’s neighborhoods.
The Canary Island date palm — ancient symbol of victory and resurrection. Happy Birthday, Los Angeles!
Link
Los Angeles is not mentioned in this article, but it also is a great city that was planned during the age of the Bourbon Reforms. In founding LA, Felipe de Neve utilized this plan of cuadriculae grouped around the Plaza Mayor.
It is fun to compare the map of colonial Bogata, for instance, with old maps of LA.