Tag Archives: CalTrans

Over (And Under) The Silent Sands of Time

YOUR OROGENOUS ZONES DEPT./
CANYON REJUVENATION DIV.

Princes come, princes go.
An hour of pomp and show, they know!
Princes come; and over the sands,
And over the sands of time, they go.
Wise men come,
Ever promising the riddle of life to know.
Wise men come; ah! but over the sands,
The silent sands of time, they go!
Lovers come, lovers go,
And all that there is to know,
Lovers know; only lovers know.

— Robert Wright and George Forrest, Kismet, 1955, commissioned and debuted by the Los Angeles Civic Light Opera.

Fifty years ago today, February 9, 1971, occurred the deadly and devastating San Fernando Earthquake, aka the Sylmar Quake. https://ktla.com/news/local-news/l-a-marks-50-years-since-deadly-6-6-magnitude-san-fernando-sylmar-quake/

It was felt most in Sylmar, where it caused huge damage to the old Olive View Hospital. It put an end to the long era in which Los Angeles geologists wrote studies about finding oil wells; now they would all be about how to “predict the Big One.” (Lately, happy to report, they’re all about block rotation!)

I’ve read reports that new fault scarps arose in Lopez Canyon, many meters high, on February 9, 1971.

The Sylmar shaker ushered in the modern idea of building according to seismic safety codes, CalTrans started to re-invent freeways, and the DWP and Army Corps. had to figure out what to do with all the eggshell-brittle dams and reservoirs up there, Hansen Dam and the Chatsworth Reservoir, and Lopez and Pacoima dams (the first three were drained, the last retro-fitted). The epicenter was just over the Pass, in Placerita Canyon, or rather, deep under the alluvial surface deposits of Placerita Canyon. Maybe some, or all of these landscapes were left as they are, for me to photograph, during the Sylmar Quake.

Golden Placerita Canyon, muy bonita; but deadly, 50 years ago today.
The canyons marked in blue are all in the edge of the North American Plate, the Pangean Riviera, and they are all cross-hatched with faults. These include the once-coastal, once crucial San Gabriel Fault on the south side of the San Gabriels, and on the north side, the San Andreas.

The Los Angeles Basin of California derives its name, and the San Gabriel River and Mountains theirs, from the names first incanted upon them by Fr. Juan Crespi, Franciscan missionary and diarist of the Portola expedition. On July 28, 1769, when the Spanish explorers came up the coastal plain from San Diego, they camped on the mesa above the banks of the Santa Ana RIver. This was right at the edge of the Los Angeles (named later) Basin. There was an earthquake lasting ‘half a Hail Mary.’ At every encampment the expedition made that week, at each of the principal drainage rivers of the Eastern and Central Transverse Range Blocks — Santa Ana, San Gabriel de Los Temblores, and the Rio de Porciuncula de la Reina de Los Angeles, there were massive earthquakes. Then on the days after, while marching north, there were ominous aftershocks. On August 3, Lady Day, when the party reached Yangna, the Tongva village where LA was founded downtown, and while delicate negotiations were going on, there was such a big one that the tremendous noise and shaking equally terrified the Tongva, the Spaniards and their pack animals. These were not events the Indians or the Franciscans took lightly. As soon as the Spanish left the Valley, leaving the Basin, the earthquakes stopped.

The Portola earthquakes were all within the old Farallon Plate subduction zone, the corner of an active spreading center which hit like the point of an arrowhead at Los Angeles, slipped under the continent, where its sides, still spreading, were driven under the plate as far as Santa Ana, and here, at the top of the Valley. This may have given birth to the San Andreas Fault. Maybe these landscapes were left there, as they are, for me to photograph during that incredible historic week in LA history.

I went behind Sugarloaf, 2,074 feet, to see what lies atop and behind and beneath, and why it looks like an old extinct undersea volcano pushed up to mountain height. Hint…

From a 1931 geology thesis survey of the Lopez Canyon area. Note the clay cover is more nearly intact, capping the structure of the heart of the dome. It’s tough to tell, but it doesn’t look like chaparral or scrub up there, like in the arms; it’s more like a potrero of residual Spanish Pasture Mix. Today the sides are are noticeably still invasive-grassy, but the vault is noticeably CFP-dominant. Much mass has been wasted this year, and we can see the fascinating ribs of the hill.

The Pangean Riviera was a very old, very flat place, first formed 1.7 billion years ago. It had already, likely many times, grown up great crystalline mountains, that had then eroded down to flat plains of boulders with fabulous rocks tumbling lazily over a wide white sandy beach, drizzled with run-off from the creeks. But sea level fell; and the beach got cliffs which got full of oak terraces, which drained copious mud and soil and rocks onto the white sand. When sea level rose, the white sand would swirl under the surf in huge undersea dunes. Sea level fell again, and more oak terraces would form in the drainages, even higher than before. This was the Embayment of the San Fernando Valley. Then came the Eocene intrusions, and uplift.

Limerock Canyon — tiny, but mighty in geology!

3 million years ago when a big chunk of Orange County broke off and was captured by the Pacific Plate, and was pushed obliquely up the coast, so that the “prow” of the broken-off fault block (the beach town of Valley Village) SLOWLY slammed straight into the Pointe of North America’s ancient coast (Sylmar). Patient reader, Sylmar shattered.

At that point, the Riviera’s long flat plain of white sandy beach was littered by every size of boulder. Under faulting half of the crust got sucked and crunched down into a new subduction zone, deep enough to melt the sand and boulders and cause magma chambers to boil. Meanwhile, under the prow of the WTR block more layers of the beach sand and rocks were pushed up, up, up — and then each time let crash. They rose and slumped down, three or more cycles. Sea levels rising and falling too, in their own cycles. At some point the magma chambers underneath couldn’t take it anymore, and ruptured to the surface in great tubes, underwater, over the sandy lagoon floor, melting the new sand and rock into the old sand and rock, making new kinds of sandy rock.

A Depressive’s Tour of Downtown — City Hall, Bunker Hill

Whoah-kay, props to both of you who stayed with the tour! This section on South Main grew up when the old Plaza grew dense, urban, violent, filled with drifters and low-lives. It was known as “Los Diablos.” In 1871 a shootout in Negro Alley (Calle de los Negros), the infamous Chinese Massacre, killed a score of hard-working and innocent “Celestials” who had taken refuge from the mob in the dank flophouse that had become of the old Coronel Adobe.

The Bella Union pictured in 1871. The Chinese Massacre might have been in progress right around the corner; did this man hear the shots and horrible screams-? That also looks like a stagecoach; the Butterfield?

This historic block held the Bella Union, LA’s first Hotel. Built of adobe in 1835, the fine casa was bought soon after by Pio Pico for “Government House.” (It was a Southern California power-grab from Monterey; Pico had gotten LA named as the provincial capital.) In 1849, with Yankees flooding into the garrisoned capital, it was turned into a Gold Rush hotel. Despite its name, or because of it, the Bella Union became a hotbed of Southern seccessionist sedition in the Civil War. The whole block was torn down for parking lots, and the Triforium. See the VVV blog entry on the Triforium, I can’t bear to go into it again, it’s too damn sad.

Sorry about the azure skies; but to glimpse this Plaza in gloom is to feel one’s soul turned to stone.

LA’s City Hall, 1927, architect Bertram Goodhue and others. You’ll remember this soaring tower as the Daily Planet Building on the old Superman TV program. George Reeves…? The one in black and white? Well, it was very popular. It told the story of a city where people yearned for a hero to defend them against urban violence and decay. City Hall played the newspaper committed to the same cause…so the hero worked there. [Sigh.] Today the People’s Palace is surrounded by empty lots, all carefully groomed and fenced off, awaiting a developer to build more of the ultra-high-end hipster lofts that are the hallmark of the New Downtown. Oh yeah: look up to the tower; The Lindbergh Beacon is on top. Lucky Lindy? Charles Lindbergh?? He…was… a Nazi sympathizer. Let’s move on.

So many sisters! Who is this family, the Gabors? You knew about Mexico City; but Beirut? Yerevan? Vancouver? Bordeaux??! Do they all share outfits?

Behold the former LA Times buildings known as Times-Mirror Square, planted right across from City Hall so the Chandlers could keep an eye on things.

For generations, the Chandler family owned the paper and ruled LA with an iron fist of conservatism, racism, union-busting and cars cars cars cars cars. They also promoted Olvera Street and the LA Music Center. In the 70s and 80s they broadened editorial policy, embraced diversity in the city, took a hardline on Nixon, and began to win Pulitzer Prizes. This disgusted the Chandlers on the board so they sold it out to a succession of rapacious right-wing billionaires. Its progressive readership went away — poof! — and the paper has almost disappeared as a ledger of Los Angeles or of anything else. The new billionaire owner — with few workers to worry about — has abandoned this site entirely as anything but a real-estate development. Click below for the plans, if you can stand to see to more bland white hipster towers ringed with external open storage sheds — er, balconies.

https://la.curbed.com/2018/12/5/18126329/times-mirror-square-los-angeles-times-landmark-vote

Here’s a parking lot so ugly they dressed it up with yet another bas relief depicting the usual Progress/Westward Course of Empire/Europa and the Bull theme. I think. Or it’s a bison, or an iron horse, or an anvil. It looks like it’s about to be demolished, so this may be the only record of it, whatever it is.

Look up to famous Grand Avenue, and see the famous Walt Disney Concert Hall. It’s probably the most famous new-ish public building in LA, by LA’s most famous architect, Frank Gehry, which makes it the hottest and most important building in LA right now, by the Hollywood Razor. On a sunny day it can be quite dazzling. Really — it has blinded several people! The billion-dollar development below, which they hope will block this view, has been long-delayed. But plans call for just the ticket to relieve LA’s sky-high rental rates: thousands of stylish hipster lofts in excellent designer colors and tons of ample underground parking for the car culture of today’s Millennials. In the meantime, the city lets the weeds grow, and they’ve turned into a fragrant and colorful native plant meadow! Right here in the city! Never fear; soon they’ll get the sprayers out, kill the weeds and return this shoddy patch of blight to a nice graded sandy lot like the others, catnip, they hope, for developers. Here’s a video of a car driving on this street up the hill, and all over Bunker Hill — As It Was.

Click to watch archival footage of the razed Bunker Hill.

BUNKER HILL — Everything on this once-prime residential hill that was gracious and spacious and sunny and Jane Jacobs-y , bristling with Victorian turrets and shaded by porches and pepper trees, was torn down after 1949. The Chandlers, et al., who had swindled the City and the Valley farmers over the aqueduct in 1908, now swindled the Feds and citizens of LA once gain: they took Harry Truman’s veterans’ housing billions and tore down most of the city’s good housing. Instead of building any modern housing, they built these office towers adjacent to new freeways to the suburbs. and made more billions. But LA had lost its best housing stock. It still hasn’t recovered. How can it, when everything built here since was apparently built to destroy life, negate hope, and frustrate human purpose?

So, that’s where the tour ends. You guys look hungry — I recommend the Grand Central Market – if you’ve got the stomach for Millennials and flash-mobs. See? Either it’s a putsch, or somebody’s doing Octoberfest!

Otherwise, a couple of Mexican options. La Cita is fun if you’ve got “brass rail clip joint” wallets…? OK, try Ye Olde Taco House #1. 10 bucks’ll fill you up on frijoles. Look, it’s clearing up, I’ve got to get my hide inside. What’s that? No, I do NOT have any spare change. Stop following me!