Welcome to the blog of writer and musician Andrew Martin. Here I'll post original photographs and observations as I encounter the history and culture of the San Fernando Valley, the City of the Angels, Alta California and the far-flung Pacific Rim… but mostly the Valley.
.37 inches of rain for LA…a fine morning for a foggy hike, though it was dicey footing on the steep trail when I was caught by a cloudburst. The rain exposed some of the fascinatingly complex geology of the canyon, including big chunks of the (famous?) Nichols Diorite. The native plants were refreshed by the velvet fog — as you can see, and hear, in my video.
“Till The Clouds Roll By” — P.G. Wodehouse, Jerome Kern (1915) Sung by Mel Torme
Wodehouse, the lyricist, lived here in the 1930s. He rented Billy Haines’s fabulously decorated Hollywood pied-a-terre at 1710 N. Stanley Ave, two blocks from the mouth of Nichols Canyon. (When P.G. returned to Blighty, Talullah B. took over the lease.) So Wodehouse and his wife had intimacy with this canyon, and its breezes and fragrances — though if he ever hiked up, I’m sure it was in a sedan chair with a folding drinks-table in the door. The lush neighborhood has been — is — popular with English ex-pats, including David Hockney.
Last week I finally found the elusive 3rd trailhead into Santa Susana State Park and it was the Gateway to Hell. It’s on something called Larwin Avenue in Chatsworth (which good luck finding) where condos and cul-de-sacs abruptly give way to wild, recently incinerated lands. The park is in the pinch point of the braid of three Transverse Mountain Ranges (the Simi Hills, the Santa Susana Mountains, and the Santa Monica Mountains.)
Google satellite View of the trailhead from what must have been this past spring, 2021. Note the chaparral looks more or less normal, not overgrown…in fact sparse, patchy or dead in spots, where the soil also appears singed. Drought, sure…but, a few rock-hollows show grey ash char.ROCK-hollows.
Caves around here are famous; the Chumash and Tongva and Tataviam shamans performed rituals in them, and many have cave paintings. [I’m assured that the few surviving true Chumash medicine caves are well-hidden and protected; and that all the art on the accessible cave walls is punk graffiti.]
It took a week of internet searching (“recent wildfire, Chatsworth, Larwin Street, SSSP, brushfire, Simi Hills…”) before I could find any news reports of the ”Jeffrey Fire,” last month. The capture above is from KTLA 5. There’s clearly some good fuel growing on the back slopes. But of course, that isn’t what’s burning, and its smoke would be black, I think, at least a little.
VITRIOL FALLS?
🤔It appears the scorchiest parts, and the freshest and deepest ash piles, are under rocks, between rocks, and deep inside piles of rocks. 😈Sure, tree roots smolder underground… 🤔 Why aren’t the crowns and limbs burned? And note how everywhere there’s flow of scorch, out of the holes…rivers of incinerated rock and oddly altered soil and, sure, some wood ash, and bounded or banked by badly deformed rocks?
🥺Why aren’t the rocks on top of piles of burned rocks, burned? 😈 Subterranean downdrafts. 🙄 Then why is there scorching in loose soil around seemingly emergent pillow basalts? Why does the pillow basalt appear to have wiggled its way up out of loose earth at all? Why is it that the minerally altered gravels that washed over or splashed on boulders, has become chemically fixed to their surfaces, like emory? Why is the ground under my feet still hot? 😈⚡️Erosion; homeless cookfires; turbidity currents, weathering invasive grasses. Punk kids! Drought! Dogs off leash! 😌This cliff face; there are an awful lot of different kinds of rock here from many different ages, intruded by volcanics and altered. Isn’t that a great recipe for hydrothermals, or gas releases? 😈 I only have Craig Claiborne’s recipe: too much sodium, not enough sulfur.
🤔 You’re sure there are no volcanoes in Los Angeles, right? 😈That’s right, you’re wrong. 🤭Never have been? 😈Well, if you mean the Conejo Volcanics… 🤔Oh right; where were they again, down in Orange County? 😈Maybe there, but also…..maybe, just over the hill. I mean, MILES away, five at least, past Topanga. Anyway, eight, ten million years ago. When all this was underwater! 😏 Right, making these pillow basalts! 😈Fire-fused sandbags buried after an old Western movie shoot. 😏 I wonder if anyone else has reported there are gorgeous volcanics in Santa Susana Pass. 😈It would take you YEARS to find a refrence in the geology literature online! HA ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha. 🙄 So no Miocene pillow basalts intruding the Chatsworth Formation, at all? 😈 It concerns me that this matters so much to you. 😏…nor in the Simi Hills, no hydrothermal flows through all this basalt, no methane seeps near these fault zones, no underground mineral fires, or Vitriol Falls flowing out of those two white- and-yellow steaming mounds? 😈 Did you search for those things? 😌Yes! 😈Find anything? 🥺No. 😈THEN THERE ISN’T! 🥺Then what’s all this stuff here? 😈None of this stuff is here! HA ha ha ha ha ha! 🙄And who believes bloggers, I suppose? 😈 Welcome to the Devil’s Slide, sucker! HA ha ha ha ha ha!
The family — who are keen gardeners themselves — wanted help re-thinking their front yard presentation. All the lavender along the walk, but one, had up and died. They had hoped for birds and bees zooming through the yard, especially since they have a fine raised vegetable bed. They wanted color and flowers, bright and homey. From back East originally, they missed lilac blossoms and fresh scents. The lavender almost fit the bill, until it didn’t. I knew many wonderful California plants could fit the bill too, but where to put them?
I reckoned that the lavender failed because there wasn’t enough soil area in the walkway planting strips, which are only a foot wide. Plus they were covered with hot, dark stones. Underneath was compacted clay soil, almost concrete. (Apparently the people from whom they bought the house had parked cars in the front yard for years.) The hopelessness of the front yard, I understood, was what led them to the solution of the artificial turf.
I never had experience with artificial turf. I was wary at first, afraid that I would accidentally rip it, like billiard-table felt; that it would seal off the yard from air- and water-exchange completely; or that it would act as a hot spot. I quickly learned how practical and comfortable it is, and appreciated the clean lines and modern look. But still, no place to plant. How to bring pollinators, scent, color, and seasonal variety from two narrow, low, clay strips?
I learned the family themselves had built the raised veggie bed, and also the other chic wooden planter boxes scattered around the house. I got excited by the idea, and asked if they could actually make planter boxes that would give enough cubic feet of soil to support Zen meadows, or bonsai arroyos. Even a foot high planter box could raise the level of good soil up over the hot concrete; and support plants tall enough to lure your fluttery pollinators, and also various creepers and wall-hangers to shade the sides of the boxes. I got even more excited when they said sure, they would build such boxes. And I was ecstatic when, two weeks later, I saw how elegantly they did it, shaping the planters to hug the slope. The result added depth at the front gate, perfect to anchor a showy blue ceanothus, which will give the family and the birds and bees, the California version of lilacs in spring.
The parkway strip was a hard-baked adobe brick covered in red mulch. It had only one tree from the city, plus a dying gardenia. These strips are notoriously tough to plant in satisfying ways: neglected in the past, frequently abused in the present; subject to all kinds of city ordinances; subject to wind-blown trash and doggie doo; shadeless and dry. Parkway strips are extremely restricted in plantable soil space. But given the already restricted space for planting, I realized we could double the yard’s total habitat area by contiunuing the Zen arroyo idea out to the street. It would be the week’s work of a Southern chain-gang to break up all thirty feet of that baked clay; but with a pick-axe and some sweat, I filled four small discrete “bowls” with enough good soil and drainage to hold suites of scrub plants and succulents. In between the bowls is like cement, but in the bowls the soil is soft and friable. By watering only in the bowls, and letting the edges bake, the creeping natives, I hope, will have time and space to establish themselves while, I hope, the weeds won’t. The natural look, and weed-repulsion, is enhanced with specimen rocks that will als shade the ground, and provide safe habitat for adorable lizards and birdies browsing for grass seeds. Luck gave me a bone-sere 90-degree day to work the transformation. It was terribly stressful on the plants as well as the gardener. We all shrank. I thought I had lost the yarrow and the buckwheat and the spreading sagebrush. But they are all already showing new growth, and general signs of happiness.
I wanted to continue the modernist avenue of plants — formal but exotic, wild but constricted — right up onto the porch. I wanted also some showy flowers to bring the hummingbirds right to the front door. But the porch is north-facing and perma-shaded. I put in Coral bells with sword fern at the foot of the stairs, which do okay in darker conditions. So do succulents, which I used to create a discrete, but dignified stage. Then I looked and looked for a pair of hummingbird sages, which thrive in deep shade, to fill matching pots I intended for the first step. The only ones I could find, however, maybe the last two in LA, were tiny seedlings no bigger than my thumb. It would be absurd to put them in big pots until they have had some time to grow up a little bit, so I gave them pots ”the next size up” and set them along the window bay, for next year.
It was a fascinating project trying to ”re-wild” such constrained plots. The results, in a year or two when it is all grown in, will I hope pay off.
Click above, or below, to read Eric Mann’s fascinating article
I’ve been looking for the nails in Van Nuys’s coffin as far back and away as Iroquois Schenectady; one might have looked a bit closer in time and space. This morning I found a great article on http://counterpunch.org about how the hard-working middle-class of the Valley fought for their very existence in 1982 by insisting that the common wealth of the community was the point of enterprise, and its needs are more important than any pencil-head corporation’s balance-sheet shenanigans.
GM’s Van Nuys Assembly opened in 1950 and employed thousands of United Auto Workers until 1992, when the plant closed. Management had planned to shut down a decade earlier, but the Valley community supported the union, our local politicians supported the union, and one of Studio City’s greatest union men ever, Ed Asner (RIP) was turned like a Lou Grant bulldog on GM’s shiny-balloon CEO:
Eric Mann goes on to describe what sounds like a barnburner of a bargaining session:
The decade that began with chants that “the people united can never be defeated” ended, of course, with a great sucking sound.